Ryan, of Walkifornia, tipped me off in regard to a video he made of a recent visit to Scenic Hot Springs in Washington. Since Scenic is a personal favorite, one that I sadly do not have the pleasure of frequenting often, I wanted to share…

If you are interested in visiting Scenic Hot Springs, please read his post, or visit the caretakers blog to learn about how to setup a visit for yourself.

Rick, Matt and Mike – Thank you for taking such good care of Scenic over the years!

Related: Salute to Scenic Hot Springs – View All Scenic Posts

Scenic Hot Springs in Washington has always been one of my favorites. Truly a stellar soak. Rick updated Scenic’s Blog on Thursday with the sad news… complete closure. It’s the same story we hear all too often in regard to public hot springs – the few that ruined it for the many.

Before it’s official closure, this hot springs was something else. It was my first brush with a backcountry hot springs community. A place where all walks of life seemingly blended into one, that of the hot springer. Here’s the trip report I wrote after visiting Scenic for the first time in August of 2001:

08.2001
My good friend and I were camping throughout central Washington when we finally decided that this insane, dry, hot, desert camping was getting to be too much… all sun and no shade made us very unhappy. The areas I speak of are around Wenatchee, George, and Moses Lake, Washington.


After a few brutal days of camping we decided that this was enough. We first sought water, and camped in a not so bad BLM wildlife protected area near the sand dunes south of Moses Lake. The camping was still hot and dry, but at least there were a few small trees around – and the amount of cool looking birds that used the nearby wetlands was off the chart. I wished I knew more about bird species. Around 2am we were startled when a huge pack of coyotes ripped through our campsite howling like mad, and then back again an hour later. It was quite exciting! We made it out of our tents and into truck cabs seconds before our tents and camp were rampaged by about 20 running coyotes.


Anyway, after that adventure we headed straight for Leavenworth (the unique German-Bavarian looking town), we needed permits for camping and hiking before heading towards Steven’s Pass. I remember seeing some alternative looking folks by the roadside in town, holding signs that simply stated “Scenic”. Little did I know that I would later share a soak with the sign-holders.


It seemed like a rainforest to us after all the previous environments we’d experienced along our trip. We past the ski lodge at the summit and continued down I2 a bit further before pulling off onto a dirt road that took us down to some train tracks (just after the turn off to the train tunnel on the other side of the road) and a couple old cabins that mother nature was attempting to retake (they looked scary even during the day).


We then found a nice little road that took us about a mile or two into the forest, and then hiked a couple miles in and found a perfect campsite, one with a small waterfall only a minute away. A lady hiking around the waterfall that we talked to was there visiting because the ashes of her sister were spread at that very place. She and her sister had grown up near here, and she still lived in the area today. We spent time hiking out to Surprise and Glacier Lakes – the hikes were unreal, the scenery breathtaking!


Our first night camping in the area we hiked up to Scenic Hot Springs. It was quite a brisk little hike. Short, but steep at times. And, with it getting dark on us, we nearly missed a couple key turns at intersections we didn’t even know we were at. It was all worth it though. The hike was spectacular, and the hot pools amazing. Lots of work went into the construction of the huge soaker pools, each lined with thick plastic and filled with piped in water. Wood decks and walkways skirted each pool which in turn had it’s own specific temperature range with the Lobster Pot at the top.


There were at least 30 to 40 people there. A small percentage of the soakers had suits or bottoms on while the majority enjoyed the springs the natural way. Words can’t even describe this place. The views were rare to me and were obtainable from a sitting position in any pool.


I remember sitting in a pool with a couple off-duty wildland firefighters, a couple from Finland, a bevy of businessmen and women from Seattle and a handful of hippies from Eugene, and was amazed at how kind and decent everyone was to each other. This theme ensued, and it reminded me of how Native Americans historically treated hot springs; as sacred places where all are equal. Even during times of war, there was always peace at the hot springs.

A special thanks to Rick and friends for taking care of Scenic. Even though it’s closed, you can bet that group will continue to move forward with plans to re-open Scenic in the future. Until then, Scenic need be left in peace, it’s in good hands.

View all Scenic Hot Springs Posts

View Scenic on IHS

christine at the hot springs
Originally uploaded by gaijinrunner

I need to re-visit this stellar soak… here’s pics and video from my last visit

A member from the family that originally owned and operated the Olympic Hot Springs Resort in the early 1900s recently contacted me with a special treat… two photos of the Hot Springs Resort from 1927 and 1937 (see above and below).

Of course, the present day location of the old resort is located in Olympic National Park, and the old road into the hot springs in now a hiking trail. The resort is long gone, although remnants can still be found near the hot springs, and the hot pools are now in a natural state.

The hike to Olympic Hot Springs is 2.5 miles from the trailhead during warmer months. When there is snow, road barricades are erected, and increase the hike in from 2.5 to 6.5 miles during winter. The hot springs emanate from multiple locations to feed a group of 5 pools; where 3 out of the 5 are typically a sweet soak.

Seasonal Notes
While the hot springs are usable all year, snow shoes might be in order during winter months. Road barriers are pushed back 4 miles during the winter because of snow and snow drifts – extending the hike to 6.5 miles, 1-way. This significantly increases the elevation gain as well.

Wildlife Notes
To protect raccoons, bears and other wildlife, all food, garbage and scented items must be secured from all wildlife 24 hours a day. If staying overnight; all food, garbage and scented items must be hoisted to keep it from Bears and other wildlife. Bear canisters would be a great choice as well.

Dogs are not allowed on any trails in the Olympic National Park, they are only allowed in select campgrounds while on-leash (strictly enforced).

Camping Notes
Nearest campground: Altaire/Elwha (5 miles from trailhead). There are 2 camping sites near the hot springs for backpackers, one even features a pit toilet.

View pictures of present day Olympic Hot Springs

IdahoHotSprings.com was in the Spokane newspaper (and North Idaho), the Spokesman Review last Sunday in a special article titled “Hot Spring Havens”. It was a well-written piece that featured commercial hot springs in Montana. WTG Cassy!

RSM: Red Spider Mite (magnified)

Ahh yes, a natural nemesis of the hot springer, the Red Spider Mite (RSM) is known to inhabit a few hot springs. Barley visible to the naked eye, these tiny crimson mites scurry about on rocks and the top of water in and around select hot springs in Idaho and the Northwest.

They cling to the body (including clothing left next to the pools) and proceed to bite the skin in an unsuccessful attempt to lay eggs. The bites leave itchy red sores behind that usually heal completely after a couple weeks. It is highly advisable to use itch relief cream and avoid itching the bites. The human immune system kills off the eggs before they can hatch and eventually builds up enough immunity to kill off the mites themselves.

• Avoid the hot, dry rocks near and next to hot springs as the majority of RSMs inhabit this area.

• Use bug juice, but only after your soak – RSMs usually wait to dig-in until their host has dry skin, applying bug juice after soaking should reduce your chances of receiving bites.

My first time in the Olympic National Park proved to be an excellent experience. The goal was to visit Olympic Hot Springs just after the 8 feet of snow melted and road barriers were pushed back, and before the continuous wave of geo-soakers hit the NP and hot springs for the warmer season. The timing of my soaking party’s arrival couldn’t have been any better.

As we hiked toward the hot springs through the lush and vibrant green forest we passed a group of 5 on their way out. They had spent a couple nights at the hot springs and had the whole place to themselves. The hike along the slightly elevated old, paved forest service road was fairly easy. The only problem is that the trail was washed out in 3 places. The first required a slight walk-around to a fallen tree and a dip-route through a huge broken stump. The 2nd had a semi-narrow earth bridge, and 3rd a single log bridge with handrail.

Snow only slightly came into play on the hike in. We encountered about a foot within the last quarter mile of the hot springs. At most, there was about 2 feet on the ground at the backpacker campsites, which are located just before the bridge that leads to the hot springs. The trail itself was worn enough for easy passage without the need for snowshoes, albeit a bit icy.

The hot springs, ahh yes… the hot springs. They were awesome. I tracked down 6 total pools, 4 soakable (the others too hot and goober laden). The water felt great, and having the whole place to ourselves was amazing. Full-qualification of all 4 pools could be had. It’s muddy around the pools, and to combat this there are many mats nearby. Although, the mats are fairly gross after heavy use. Here’s a tip: stand on a trash bag. When you’re done (changing/soaking) put trash in the bag and haul it off utilitarian style.

There was a slight sulfur odor at each of the pools, along with some algae stemming from lack of use over the winter break. The water was near clear, and the pool temperatures ranged from 98º to 104º. On the hike back out we passed 17 soakers! Once back at the car 3 additional vehicles arrived while we ate a late lunch. Good timing indeed.

Scenic Hot Springs

08.20.05 Trip Report
Ahh yes! This trip was excellent! I was a tad bit nervous just because of all the PR surrounding Scenic, but after taking a look at the official Scenic Hot Springs Blog I felt much better. The mild sunny temps made for a great hike up the hill towards the hot springs. We arrived to find 3 friendly guys from Seattle enjoying a soak. We soaked and chatted for a while then the 3 headed out… good guys too, packed out more than their fair share of trash.

Scenic Hot Springs

I was awestruck; here I was enjoying this incredible hot springs that I thought inconceivable to ever have to myself, one last time before it turns completely into a commercial hot springs. It was one of those good and bad moments. I found out from a couple friends that on 08.21.05 (Sunday) the owners were present and working on building construction. Last time I soaked here I meet some people from Sweden and Finland, not too mention experience the gourmet cooking of the naked chef. Seems like eons ago. The single pool was in great shape, and apparently is a temporary soaking solution until natural rock pools can be developed.

Scenic Hot Springs

Much has changed since I was here last. Wikipedia hosts a general description of the hot springs along with a brief history of the springs back in their day as a commercial resort – ironic that now it is once again becoming commercial.

Here’s what Wikipedia currently has to say about Scenic:

“…a very popular natural hot spring in Washington State. Located on US Route 2, about 8 miles west of Stevens Pass (via road) and high on a steep northwestern slope.

Known as Madison Hot Springs in the 1890′s, a lodge was built to accomadate seekers of mineral baths who arrived by train from Seattle. The name was later changed to Scenic Hot Springs and survived as a commercial venture until 1928.

Construction by the Great Northern Railroad of an 8-mile tunnel under Stevens Pass dumped rubble into the front yard of the lodge and effected its destruction.

Largely forgotten until the 1980′s, it then became a popular gathering spot for mineral water bathers with several tubs constructed of various temperatures.

Reports of vandalism to vehicles, as well as rowdy behaviour prompted the landowner to instruct the King County sheriff to destroy the tubs in October 2002.

A new landowner is in the process of reconstructing the tubs and making improvements to the property to support visitors in the near future. The two external links discuss this progress.”

Rating A+

According to an avid Scenic Hot Springer as of 11.09.04 the turnoff towards Scenic Hot Springs off I-2 is now gated with a very large “NO TRESPASSING – MUST BE EXPLICITLY INVITED” sign. It looks like Scenic’s new owners are finally setting up shop. So long old friend, many will miss you.

Controversial Scenic Hot Springs in Washington near Steven’s Pass currently has 1 pool which is available for soaking opportunities. The land owner apparently has no problems as long as the area and pool is well respected. Plans for commercialization are still in the works despite not meeting their goal of opening in September 04. Construction of the pools is currently tied up with plenty of red tape. It looks like us soakers will have one last time to enjoy Scenic before the commercialization transformation occurs. Special thanks to a friend of hot springs for the information.